As the fog rolls off the coast, I begin my journey north. A long way from what is my current home; I am again comforted by the smell of the ocean. The salty air teases my nostrils. My morning starts in Santa Barbara, coastal wine country. The livestock here have the best view, only second to the cows that graze in Big Sur. Big Sur, for this is where my journey is taking me. Back to friends, familiarity and where the mountains dance with the ocean. I only wish I were there more often as I feel my encounters may be better documented. But it is love and longing that brings us our sweetest memories.
North of Santa Barbara I travel through Buellton and Los Alamos. Fog still sits in the coastal valleys. But the sun is working hard today, as the fog is all but gone by the time I make my way into San Lois Obispo. The highway splits here, the 101 heading up the valley to King City and Salinas, and California Highway One, hugging the coast to Monterey. My anticipation is heightening.
Just north of San Lois Obispo is Morro Bay. A chain of nine ancient volcanoes spans the distance. Morro Rock welcomes visitors with a dramatic appearance. Boasting a 578ft. summit above the bay, it is also a nesting area for Peregrine Falcons. I was able to enjoy the view, less the smokestacks, from one of many beaches and also catch some So-Cal surfing in action. As I continue on, next is Cambria and San Simeon. This is where Big Sur officially begins. El Sur Grande, or Big Sur, the big south. I pull into a turnout above the beach where Elephant Seals sunbath. It’s a favorite spot for the tourists to see these strange ocean dwelling mammals. After snapping a few shots, I get back on the road. Feeling the desire for a warm drink I stop at Ragged Point. My intentions were to get a coffee; however that quickly changes to a Chai Tea Latte instead. The lady at the counter has on CNN. I stay to catch up on a little news, the Tucson shooting, and discuss the tragedy for a moment. Leaving with the desire to understand how someone could do such a thing, I find no answer in my own mind. Rolling down the window, I crank the radio; the winding of the road lures me to be lost though I can only continue one way.
Wanting to stop and jade hunt, I convince myself to settle for the view and continue on to my destination. As I am led further north, I come to the usual construction at Lucia, more than the last time I came through. The earth threatens to fall out from under the highway as you drive along. This is what the California Department of Transportation is continually trying to prevent.
And yet further north I go. Before long I find myself passing Esalen and Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park, I quickly hop out of the car to enjoy the view of McWay Falls. Knowing that I am so close, but drawn to the view, I keep a slower pace for the next fifteen miles. Passing the Coast Gallery, then Deetjens, The Henry Miller Library, Nepenthe, Post Ranch and Ventana, I top the hill. My decent takes me past the Big Sur Bakery, Spirit Garden and The Deli. Coasting by the Big Sur Station, Sycamore Canyon Road, Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park and around the bend, Fernwood, painted sunny yellow. One mile to go, I see the Roadhouse on my left and Ripplewood on my right. Next is Riverside campground. One more curve, I slow quickly. Signaling....it’s a sharp left just ahead. Across the bridge into the campground, I stop at the office. A gentleman sweeping brush, Justus, welcomes me to Big Sur Campground and Cabins.
~ McWay Falls ~ Deetjens ~ Morro Bay ~
